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Thom Browne’s show started with a voiceover: “Good evening, everyone. This is Thom Browne. Before we start, I thought it would be appropriate to observe a moment of silence for the incomparable Bill Cunningham.” In its obituary, the New York Times noted that the photographer, an outstandingly dedicated follower of fashion, resisted the trends of…
For spring 2017, Maison Margiela had the ambitious goal to “define the role of man in today’s society, his uniform, his armor, and the tactile underpinnings of his sartorial wardrobe.” This partly translated into soft tailoring with visible basting stitches, worn with brogues that morphed into sandals at the back. But as evidenced in its…
“15000 applications, 1500 schools in over 80 countries, 140 journalists from 36 nations,” read the big screen at the award ceremony, marking the 15th anniversary of the Its Fashion Festival in Trieste, Italy. In less than two decades, this fashion, accessory, and jewelry contest has earned a glossy reputation for its well-produced events set against…
True fashion moments are rare. It’s been a decade since the first of them this century began, a hallowed âge d’or of menswear when scalpel-cut suits, torn jeans, and scrawny rock ‘n’ roll teens set the agenda. This was the era Hedi Slimane ruled. Times have changed since then. And like so many other gifted designers—Helmut, Jil,…
Hintmag – January 2016 With Hedi Slimane’s decision to stage his Saint Laurent show in Los Angeles next month, Thom Browne was given the last word on a fashion week that produced several fine collections (wonderful outerwear and exquisite accessories) and an arresting, no-photos-allowed performance by Hood By Air (more on that later). Browne wrapped…
On the ceiling hung a mammoth chandelier while the runway was laid out like a skate park, although a grit-less, neon-brimmed version. The setting of Dior’s latest men’s show epitomized Kris Van Assche’s vision for the house, where he’s been ensconced for almost ten years. His man has an interest in young obsessions — music,…
It took more than three years and several high-profile dramas, but at the fabled Palladium concert hall in Los Angeles last night, Hedi Slimane sent out the Saint Laurent collection many have been waiting for, a redefinition of Gallic chic for the rock/hip-hop/Instagram generation — and it was fabulous. Where Slimane often reproduced L.A. for…
When a model hit a wall on Rick Owens’ runway today, her head shrouded in a nimbus of mohair, I couldn’t help thinking about that Chanel couture show back in 1994, when Karl Lagerfeld sent out supermodels wearing face-covering feathered headgear that made many of them stumble. Marion Hume, then the fashion critic of the…
Austria, the country that produced Helmut Lang, Rudi Gernreich, and Hattie Carnegie, celebrated its best young fashion designers with an award ceremony that kickstarted the five-day Take Festival in Vienna. Emceed by the Finnish-born burlesque artist Denice Bourbon, the winners of the Austrian Fashion Awards were announced. They included Leopold Bossert, who designs dark men’s…